Surfing is all about reading the ocean, picking the right waves, and knowing how to handle yourself in the lineup. Whether you’re just starting out or leveling up your skills, these fundamentals will help you surf with more confidence and control.
1. Waiting for Waves
Once you’re in the water, the first thing you do is wait for the right wave. You can either sit or lie on your board—both have their advantages.
Sitting on Your Board
Sitting gives you a better view of incoming waves, so you can spot the best ones early. It also helps you stay in position, especially in strong currents, since your legs act as a natural anchor. Just make sure the nose of your board is slightly out of the water—if it’s underwater, passing swells might throw you off balance.
Lying on Your Board
Lying down lets you paddle into position quickly. The downside? You don’t have the same elevated view as when sitting. A good trick is to sit up every now and then, especially on the crest of a wave, to check for incoming sets. If there’s a strong current, staying on your stomach and paddling constantly might be necessary to hold your spot in the lineup.
2. Choosing the Right Wave
Not all waves are worth catching, and wave selection is one of the hardest things to master. You’ll want to look for a wave that’s peaking well—neither closing out too quickly nor too soft.
Left or Right?
Before paddling into a wave, decide if you’re going left or right. Most beach breaks allow you to go either way, but some waves have a clear direction. If you’re sharing a wave, communicate—call out “left” or “right” so other surfers know where you’re headed. If someone is already taking off, you might need to adjust last minute.
3. The Take-Off: Positioning & Timing
When a wave is about 6 feet (1.5 meters) away and forming into a peak, that’s your cue to start paddling. You should be positioned at the right spot—the take-off zone—where the wave starts to steepen before breaking.
Finding Your Take-Off Spot
Using landmarks on the shore (like a tree, building, or rock formation) can help you stay in the right position. Choose two fixed points to line up with so you know exactly where to wait. This helps prevent drifting, especially in bigger surf.
Spotting Feathering Waves
A good take-off indicator is “feathering”—when the crest of the wave starts to turn white but hasn’t broken yet. Paddle toward that spot for the best chance at a clean take-off. Feathering happens most often when the wind is offshore, keeping the wave clean and open.
4. Catching the Wave
Once the wave starts pushing you, pop up only when you feel its momentum. Timing is key—if you stand up too early, you’ll stall; too late, and you’ll nosedive.
The Drop
The drop is that first steep descent when you stand up. A bigger drop means more speed, which is crucial for your first turn. If you hesitate, the wave might throw you over the falls (a.k.a. wipeout).
5. Riding the Wave
Once you’re up, maintaining balance and speed is everything.
Finding the Right Position
- Inside section – The last part of the wave before it closes out.
- Middle section – The most rideable part, where you have space to maneuver.
- Outside section – Where the wave first starts breaking.
Forehand vs. Backhand
- Forehand (Facing the Wave) – Easier for most surfers since you can lean into turns.
- Backhand (Back to the Wave) – Requires more control since you lean back over your heels.
Goofy-footers (right foot forward) ride frontside on lefts and backside on rights. Natural-footers (left foot forward) do the opposite. Some surfers can ride “switch,” meaning they can swap stances mid-wave.
Mastering Your Stance
- Keep knees bent – Acts as shock absorbers for better balance.
- Feet shoulder-width apart – Gives you stability and control.
- Arms out & relaxed – Helps with balance and turns.
- Eyes forward – Always look ahead, not down at your board.
Generating Speed
Speed keeps you in the wave’s power zone and helps you perform maneuvers. Instead of bouncing up and down, skilled surfers generate speed by reading the wave, turning efficiently, and using gravity to their advantage.
6. Turning Your Board
Turning well separates intermediate surfers from beginners. The sharper your turns, the better you can maneuver down the line.
How to Turn Properly
- Shift weight slightly to lift the nose.
- Lean into the turn (toes for frontside, heels for backside).
- Pivot with your back foot, controlling the degree of the turn.
- Use your arms to guide your body into the turn.
7. Getting Off the Wave
Bailing
If a wave is about to close out, sometimes you have to bail—jump off and dive under. Always be mindful of your board and other surfers around you. If you’re surfing over a reef, avoid diving deep to prevent hitting the bottom.
Turning Off the Wave
Instead of wiping out, a smoother way to exit is by turning up and off the wave’s back before it closes out.
Flicking Off
Before surf leashes, surfers used to “flick off” by kicking their board into the open water behind the wave, keeping it from washing to shore. While this isn’t as necessary today, it’s still useful for quickly ending a ride.
Final Thoughts
Surfing isn’t just about standing up on a board—it’s about understanding the ocean, reading waves, and making split-second decisions. The more you surf, the better you’ll get at picking the right waves, timing your take-offs, and riding with flow. Keep practicing, respect the lineup, and most importantly—have fun out there!