Ever wondered, “Are the waves good today?” or “Where’s the best spot to surf?”
These two questions are always on a surfer’s mind. The hunt for perfect waves never stops, and knowing how to read the ocean and predict surf conditions is a skill every surfer should develop. After all, you don’t want to miss out on an epic session just because you didn’t check the forecast properly!
There are a few key factors that determine surf conditions:
- Weather
- Swell (Waves)
- Tides
- Wind Direction & Speed
Local knowledge also plays a huge role in understanding how these factors affect your home break. So, let’s dive into each one and see how they impact your surf session.
1. Weather: The Key to Predicting Surf Conditions
Weather is the most important factor in determining whether today’s surf will be all-time or a total mess. Learning how to read weather maps and interpret forecasts will help you score better waves.
You can get surf-related weather info from various sources—TV, radio, newspapers, and surf forecast websites. While the TV weather report might give you general conditions like air and sea temperatures, rain chances, and high/low-pressure systems, dedicated surf forecasts provide much more detail.
How to Read a Weather Map for Surfing
Weather maps show areas of high pressure (“H”) and low pressure (“L”), which directly affect wind and wave formation:
- Low-pressure systems (“L”) bring stronger winds, storms, and big waves.
- High-pressure systems (“H”) bring calm, sunny weather with little to no wind.
The key is to look for low-pressure systems out in the ocean—these are what generate the swell.
Also, pay attention to isobars (the lines around pressure systems). The closer these lines are, the stronger the winds—meaning bigger waves! Over time, if you keep checking forecasts and observing how they impact your local spot, you’ll get better at predicting surf conditions like a pro.
2. Swell: The Lifeblood of Surfing
No swell, no waves—it’s that simple. Swell is created by winds blowing over the ocean, and it comes in two main types:
- Groundswell (long-period waves, travel long distances)
- Wind swell (short-period waves, generated by local winds)
2.1 Groundswell (The Good Stuff)
Groundswell is what surfers dream of. It’s produced by strong winds from faraway storms, sometimes thousands of kilometers away. These waves travel long distances, becoming clean, well-organized lines by the time they reach the coast. They’re typically bigger, more powerful, and more consistent—perfect for surfing!
2.2 Wind Swell (Not So Great)
Wind swell is created by local winds and is usually short-lived. These waves tend to be messy, choppy, and unpredictable, often breaking in multiple places rather than forming clean lines. If the wind keeps blowing hard enough for long enough, a wind swell can turn into a more organized groundswell—but that doesn’t happen often.
3. Tides: How They Affect the Waves
Tides—caused by the moon’s gravitational pull—have a huge impact on surf conditions. The ocean level rises and falls roughly every 6-7 hours, meaning there are two high tides and two low tides each day.
Each surf spot reacts differently to tides. Some breaks work best on a high tide, while others need a low tide to fire. Understanding how the tide affects your local break is crucial to scoring good waves.
3.1 Checking the Tide Chart
Tide charts help you plan your session by showing:
✅ High tide & low tide times
✅ The height of the tide in meters or feet
✅ Full moon & new moon cycles (which create bigger tidal swings)
You can find tide charts at surf shops, fishing stores, or online. If you’re serious about surfing, a tide watch is a great investment—it lets you check the tides right from your wrist, even in the water!
4. Wind: The Deciding Factor for Wave Quality
Wind can make or break a surf session. Even if the swell is pumping, the wrong wind can turn perfect waves into unrideable mush. Here’s what you need to know:
4.1 Wind Direction
There are three main types of wind for surfing:
- Offshore Wind (Perfect Conditions)
✅ Blows from the land toward the ocean
✅ Holds the wave up, creating clean, hollow barrels
✅ Best for surfing! - Onshore Wind (Messy Waves)
❌ Blows from the ocean toward the land
❌ Makes waves choppy and unpredictable
❌ Usually ruins the session - Cross-Shore Wind (Mixed Conditions)
➖ Blows sideways along the beach
➖ Can be surfable, but not ideal
4.2 Wind Speed Matters Too
Light winds are fine, but strong winds—especially onshore—can completely ruin the surf.
- Early mornings are often the best time to surf, as winds are usually calm or offshore.
- By midday, as the land heats up, onshore winds tend to pick up.
- Late afternoons can sometimes bring calm winds again, making for a great sunset session.
Checking a surf forecast will help you see wind direction and speed before you head out.
Final Thoughts: Learn to Read the Ocean Like a Local
Surfing isn’t just about paddling out and hoping for the best—it’s about understanding how nature works. If you take the time to check weather patterns, swell charts, tides, and wind forecasts, you’ll score more waves and improve your surfing experience.
Want an easy way to check conditions? Websites like selancar.wvhg.surf provide surf reports for different spots, making it simple to find the best waves.
So, before you grab your board and head to the beach, take a few minutes to check the conditions. Your future self will thank you when you’re riding clean, glassy waves instead of struggling in messy chop! 🤙🌊