Finding the Best Entry Point
So, you’ve waxed up your board, checked the conditions, and you’re ready to paddle out. But where’s the best place to enter? Choosing the right spot can save you energy, help you avoid unnecessary beatdowns, and get you into the lineup faster.
Before jumping in, take a moment to observe:
✅ Where are the rips? Can you use one to your advantage?
✅ How big are the waves?
✅ How often do the sets roll in, and are there any lulls?
✅ Are there jump-off points on rocks, reefs, or headlands?
✅ Where are the locals paddling out and coming back in?
If you’re unsure, patience is key. Watch for a few minutes and learn from those who know the spot best.
Using Rips to Your Advantage
Rips are like Mother Nature’s conveyor belts—they can either be your best friend or your worst nightmare. As a beginner, you were probably told to avoid them at all costs. But as an intermediate surfer, you can use them strategically to paddle out with less effort.
How Rips Work
Rips form when waves push water toward the shore, and that water needs a way to escape back out to sea. This creates a powerful current—aka, a rip. The stronger the waves, the stronger the rip.
How to Spot a Rip
🔹 Water moving outward toward the ocean
🔹 A rippled or choppy surface in an otherwise calm area
🔹 Murky water with stirred-up sand
🔹 Foam, bubbles, or debris flowing out to sea
🔹 Waves breaking on either side, but not in the rip itself
Types of Rips & When to Use Them
1. Rips That Run Straight Out to Sea
The most useful type! These can help carry you quickly past the breakers with minimal paddling.
2. Rips That Run Parallel to the Shore
These run along the beach before eventually heading out. If you catch a wave in, you can hop into one of these to help get back out.
3. Rips in the Lineup
Some rips flow through the takeoff zone. These can be tricky because they pull you off your spot, forcing you to constantly paddle to stay in position.
4. Rips Along Point Breaks
Not all rips are helpful! Some run with the breaking waves instead of out to sea, dragging you away from the peak. If you see surfers constantly paddling to stay in position, that’s a sign of a rip working against them.
Choosing the Right Rip
Before paddling out, take a moment to study the rip currents:
✔ Where is it taking surfers? Will it drop you right where you want to be, or pull you into the impact zone?
✔ How fast is it moving? The stronger the rip, the less effort you’ll need to paddle.
✔ How will you exit? Plan your escape before you commit, so you don’t get pulled out too far.
💡 Pro Tip: If the rip runs alongside a point break, walk further up the point before paddling out. That way, you won’t have to fight the current just to get to the peak.
Wave Size, Lulls & Jump-Off Points
Wave Size Matters
Bigger waves mean more energy in the water, making it harder to get out. Large sets push more water toward shore, strengthening rips—but they also make wipeouts more punishing.
Time Your Paddle-Out
Every surf spot has a rhythm. Observe how often the sets come in and how long the lulls last. Paddle out during a lull to avoid taking waves on the head.
Jumping Off Rocks, Reefs, or Headlands
At some breaks, paddling out through the impact zone is a mission. If there’s a rock, reef, or headland you can safely jump off, it can save you time and energy. Just be sure to:
✔ Time your jump with the lull
✔ Know your landing zone—deep enough to avoid hitting the reef
✔ Keep your board close, but don’t leash up too early
Getting Past the Breakers
Once you’re in, it’s time to make it out to the lineup. Here’s how:
1. Duck Diving (For Shortboards & Mid-Lengths)
The most efficient way to get under a wave. Push your board down with both hands, then sink the tail with your foot or knee. Stay low and let the wave pass over you before popping back up.
🔹 Common Mistakes:
❌ Not pushing deep enough—you’ll get pushed back.
❌ Duck diving too early—you’ll surface right in the impact zone.
❌ Not keeping momentum—you need forward speed for an effective dive.
💡 Pro Tip: Practice on small waves before taking it to the big leagues.
2. Turtle Rolling (For Longboards)
If you’re on a longboard, duck diving isn’t an option. Instead, flip your board upside down, hold onto the rails, and let the wave roll over you. Once it passes, flip back over and keep paddling.
3. Paddling Through Smaller Waves
If a wave isn’t too steep, you can simply power through it. Keep paddling, keep your chest low, and punch through with confidence.
4. Timing & Positioning
If you see a big set coming, don’t charge straight into it. Instead, look for a channel, or wait for the set to pass before making your move.
Paddling Out Without Getting in the Way
One of the golden rules of surfing: never paddle into someone’s line.
If a surfer is riding a wave toward you:
✔ Paddle toward the whitewash to stay out of their way.
✔ If you’re caught inside, stop paddling and let them navigate around you.
❌ What NOT to do: Paddle straight toward a surfer on a wave. If they have to dodge you, you’re in the wrong!
Final Thoughts
The ocean is always changing, and every break is different. The more you observe, the better your instincts will get. Take your time, read the conditions, and choose the smartest path out—your session (and your shoulders) will thank you!
See you out there! 🤙